Spring reno
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: October 25th, 2019, 5:56 pm
- Location: Southern New Jersey
- Grass Type: Tall fescue/prg
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Some Experience
Spring reno
Hello, long time lurker first time poster! I know its frowned upon to do a spring reno but unfortunately I have to. My new home is all weeds and completely unlevel in the back yard. Literally has caused two rolled ankles! I am doing a mix of 4th millennium, traverse2 tttf, and bewitched kbg. The temps in southern New Jersey have been higher then normal and looks to stay that way besides a few days here and there. Was wondering when everyone thinks I can lay the seed down. I would love to do it the weekend of the 14th but I am afraid to do it to early. I am a bit compulsive so I would love your input!
Also think I may create a lawn journal for this. Thank you
Also think I may create a lawn journal for this. Thank you
-
- Posts: 1259
- Joined: June 1st, 2015, 3:10 pm
- Location: S.E. Mass.
- Grass Type: KBG
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Experienced
Re: Spring reno
I can't say that I have learned this lesson my self, but the number one rule is patience!
Spring reno's can work if you have a part of your lawn that gets more sun in the spring than the summer and early fall. Spring reno's can also work well if your using something like PR that germinates quickly, I do over-seed FF for a shady section the last two spring and have noticed some progress from them.
No matter what though, you kind of have to wait for the soil temps get into the 70's. If you don't your just keep the soil moist for nothing.
Thats why it's so much more efficient to seed in the late summer, the soil is known to be 70deg, you just need to keep the seeds moist.
Spring reno's can work if you have a part of your lawn that gets more sun in the spring than the summer and early fall. Spring reno's can also work well if your using something like PR that germinates quickly, I do over-seed FF for a shady section the last two spring and have noticed some progress from them.
No matter what though, you kind of have to wait for the soil temps get into the 70's. If you don't your just keep the soil moist for nothing.
Thats why it's so much more efficient to seed in the late summer, the soil is known to be 70deg, you just need to keep the seeds moist.
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: October 25th, 2019, 5:56 pm
- Location: Southern New Jersey
- Grass Type: Tall fescue/prg
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Spring reno
Yeah the lawn actually just pretty much full sun all day except a small portion. So 70 is the magic number? The soil temp today for my area on Greencast was 61.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: Spring reno
I have no idea where the 70 degree number comes from - most cool-season grasses will germinate well at the 55 degree mark. When the temperature falls BELOW 70 degrees in late August, that triggers Poa Annua germination. In Spring, most grasses germinate best at 55-65 degrees (steady temperature, not air temperature).
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: October 25th, 2019, 5:56 pm
- Location: Southern New Jersey
- Grass Type: Tall fescue/prg
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Spring reno
ok that is what I was thinking. So I am gonna keep checking the Greencast site and if these temps stay the way they are here I should be good around the 14th. And will one night of frost ruin the seedlings if it comes to that? Or would it have to be multiple night? Thank you
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: Spring reno
I want you to use the hatrack on top of your neck -- do you think that plants would have made it for millions of years if one night of cold weather killed them? Cmon. Read all the discussions of dormant seeding - how many nights of cold weather do they face?
-
- Posts: 28
- Joined: October 25th, 2019, 5:56 pm
- Location: Southern New Jersey
- Grass Type: Tall fescue/prg
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Spring reno
Good point!! Just wasn’t sure once they germinated and sprouted. But that is the answer I was looking for! I can go ahead as planned then! Thank you
-
- Posts: 1259
- Joined: June 1st, 2015, 3:10 pm
- Location: S.E. Mass.
- Grass Type: KBG
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Experienced
Re: Spring reno
[quote=andy10917 post_id=338473 time=1583289693 user_id=100]
I have no idea where the 70 degree number comes from - most cool-season grasses will germinate well at the 55 degree mark. When the temperature falls BELOW 70 degrees in late August, that triggers Poa Annua germination. In Spring, most grasses germinate best at 55-65 degrees (steady temperature, not air temperature).[/quote]
My mistake, for some reason I always thought 70deg was the magic temp.
Thanks for the info.
I have no idea where the 70 degree number comes from - most cool-season grasses will germinate well at the 55 degree mark. When the temperature falls BELOW 70 degrees in late August, that triggers Poa Annua germination. In Spring, most grasses germinate best at 55-65 degrees (steady temperature, not air temperature).[/quote]
My mistake, for some reason I always thought 70deg was the magic temp.
Thanks for the info.
-
- Posts: 105
- Joined: June 1st, 2018, 9:51 pm
- Location: Cape Cod Massachusetts
- Grass Type: KBG front yard, Tall Fescue backyard
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Spring reno
Andy, I was under the impression that newly sprouted seeds were vulnerable to frost damage whereas mature grass can withstand it. I understand your reasoning, but always assumed that the grass we grow around here are not native and therefore may sprout before its safe for them to do so and die with the first frost. For this reason I have avoided dormant seeding in my area due to concern for late frost.andy10917 wrote: ↑March 3rd, 2020, 11:04 pmI want you to use the hatrack on top of your neck -- do you think that plants would have made it for millions of years if one night of cold weather killed them? Cmon. Read all the discussions of dormant seeding - how many nights of cold weather do they face?
Do you think its safe for me to go ahead with dormant seeding in southeast coast Massachusetts (cape cod)? If so, that would be great as I a have a section I renovated last fall, but took poorly due shade from deciduous trees. I know this section can support shade tolerant TTF because my intial reno a few years back was spring and it did well until damage from construction.
- wis99ski
- Posts: 828
- Joined: June 7th, 2014, 9:58 am
- Location: Southeastern PA
- Grass Type: Front: Blueberry, Bewitched, Prosperity ---- Back: Bewitched, Everest, America
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
Re: Spring reno
I’ve done a successful spring reno. Spring isn’t going to be your issue, it’s summer. The baking heat of the day followed by the hot humid nights. I’m sure from your research you know why.
-
- Posts: 1259
- Joined: June 1st, 2015, 3:10 pm
- Location: S.E. Mass.
- Grass Type: KBG
- Lawn Size: 1000-3000
- Level: Experienced
Re: Spring reno
[quote=spectrum1c post_id=338656 time=1584546059 user_id=8979]
Do you think its safe for me to go ahead with dormant seeding in southeast coast Massachusetts (cape cod)? If so, that would be great as I a have a section I renovated last fall, but took poorly due shade from deciduous trees. I know this section can support shade tolerant TTF because my intial reno a few years back was spring and it did well until damage from construction.
[/quote]
I am also from S.E.Mass., as long as what your using is shade tolerant, I have had some luck with spring seeding. My hell strips in the front are in full sun in the spring and as the trees fill in, they are then in partial shade. I found that August overseeds stalled out for me here, because come mid September the sun is mostly behind the house and these sections get a lot of shade.
I have had luck over-seeding in the spring when the sun is more towards the front of the house and there are no leaves on the trees. It gives the seed a better chance to germinate, and last year, the FF from the spring did much better in the fall.
I'd rather seed in August when more things are in your favor, like soil temp, but there seems to be times when spring seeding makes sense.
Do you think its safe for me to go ahead with dormant seeding in southeast coast Massachusetts (cape cod)? If so, that would be great as I a have a section I renovated last fall, but took poorly due shade from deciduous trees. I know this section can support shade tolerant TTF because my intial reno a few years back was spring and it did well until damage from construction.
[/quote]
I am also from S.E.Mass., as long as what your using is shade tolerant, I have had some luck with spring seeding. My hell strips in the front are in full sun in the spring and as the trees fill in, they are then in partial shade. I found that August overseeds stalled out for me here, because come mid September the sun is mostly behind the house and these sections get a lot of shade.
I have had luck over-seeding in the spring when the sun is more towards the front of the house and there are no leaves on the trees. It gives the seed a better chance to germinate, and last year, the FF from the spring did much better in the fall.
I'd rather seed in August when more things are in your favor, like soil temp, but there seems to be times when spring seeding makes sense.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests