Reminder: Time to Start Prepping for Summer

[andy10917]

Just a reminder that we're now in the second half of May, and it's time to start thinking about watching the signs and gathering the materials you will need for a move to Summer mode soon. A few are:

(1) If you did the Fall Nitrogen Regimen last Autumn, it will start to run out of steam in the next 2-3 weeks - have that fertilization ready to go as the signs point to the need for a first real application.

(2) If you're doing the Proactive Biofungicide program, it's time to start now.

(3) If you forgot to get down a Pre-M for crabgrass, get the materials (Quinclorac) ready for an end-of-May treatment.

(4) If you have had Japanese Stiltgrass problems previously, make sure that you have a good Pre-M in place for its arrival, and the proper ingredients ready for a Post-M treatment for any surprise new spots. This includes Acclaim Extra.

(5) Start considering expected daily temperatures when you're going to apply herbicide(s), and know what the max temperature is for each herbicide.

(6) Make sure that you've got the irrigation system ready to go, and tested

(7) You should be nearing the maximum mowing height for the season shortly.

(8) If you're using Humates, make sure that you have the materials on-hand for the second application of Humic Acid, which should be just before the arrival of Summer heat

(9) Herbicides for Poa Annua/Poa Trivialis like Certainty and Tenacity work best as we move into higher temperatures. It's getting to the point soon where you need to get going if you think you'll need to apply 2-3 applications over the Summer.

(10) We'll be moving from the Spring Flush to slower growth for those herbicides that work best when the grass is actively growing. It will be time soon to finish up the applications, and put those products away until September.


Remember, this is the time where you will spend your efforts either keeping ahead of battles by timing everything properly, or fall behind and chase problems and battles after you've already lost the war. It's far better (and cheaper) to stay ahead and anticipate items and practices.

[LeftField11]

(1) If you did the Fall Nitrogen Regimen last Autumn, it will start to run out of steam in the next 2-3 weeks - have that fertilization ready to go as the signs point to the need for a first real application.

What are we looking for that it going to tell us that last fall's N is running out of steam? Slowing growth? Color changes? Thanks for this list.

[andy10917]

It just looks like it doesn't have the "pep" that it previously had - it looks like it's a bit tired.

[pristinegreen75]

Thanks for the list Andy. Trying to step up my lawn game this year. This forum is a huge help!!

[andy10917]

In my opinion, people that get to the point of dealing with challenges proactively actually spend less time and money, and have a huge leg-up on those that fight things reactively. And the results are far better.

[northeastlawn]

[quote=andy10917 post_id=340179 time=1589728023 user_id=100](7) You should be nearing the maximum mowing height for the season shortly.[/quote]

What if your KBG is just starting to grow this last week, or its too busy pushing out KBG seed heads and doesn't want to do top growth? :-)

I'm a long way off from 3.5", but things are picking up and I have Rhizomes popping up every where, but have a feeling the KBG seedbeds are what the lawn wants to do right now.

Your post is a good reminder that the growing season is short and I need to stop pushing it, I may not cut it again until it reach 3" at this point.

[andy10917]

What if your KBG is just starting to grow this last week, or its too busy pushing out KBG seed heads and doesn't want to do top growth?

Then you adapt.

[Masbustelo]

Is Quinclorac applied proactively, or at the first sign of crabgrass emergence?

[andy10917]

You can only use Quinclorac twice a year, at effective rates. Each application has about a 45-day effective period, so properly timed applications will get you 90 days of coverage. Use the Search capability to get more info - I've written several threads on the topic.

[Paul]

What if your KBG is just starting to grow this last week, or its too busy pushing out KBG seed heads and doesn't want to do top growth?

I typically wait to fertilize until after the seed heads set, this is the time the grass turns to growing deeper roots and a good fertilization will benefit the roots to grow deeper.

I have Bewitched and mowed two times this year just for something to do, not because it needed it. It's growing slowly in the sunny areas, but not much at all in the shadier areas. Bewitched is very slow to wake up which is fine with me. It's nice and green, just not really growing much. Before you know it, you will be mowing every 3 days and hoping for the days when you can mow it weekly.

[Jackson]

What if your KBG is just starting to grow this last week, or its too busy pushing out KBG seed heads and doesn't want to do top growth?

One thing Andy has beat into my head from his numerous contributions on this site is to be patient and observe what your lawn needs.

My front yard is awake at 3-3/4” and mowed most of the seedheads last Friday - today should get the rest. My backyard on the other hand is 75% like the front the remaining 25% Is a month behind schedule. I was going to wait another week but the 7/8ths that are looking good are running out of fall nitrogen and staring to lose color.

If it weren’t getting lime colored, I would wait. It’s telling me that it’s getting hungry so I’m throwing fert down today.

[Jackson]

Edit. Weather forecast changed. Will be mowing / fertilizing on Friday. We had some torrential downpours this past weekend and I was just checking out the back 25% and it has finally woken up and now has some seedheads.

[Orangehills]

Thanks Andy, Great List to post, organizing my battle plan today and this is just what was needed. Picked up something new while trying to buy milorganite at Site one, Clarus Dynamic Duo, wonder if there are opinions on this product. Didnt see any in the search, exactly the same as Scream Green Fertilizer just less Nitrogen @ 4 %