Bentgrass/Clover/POA
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: April 11th, 2021, 9:23 am
- Location: Detroit Michigan
- Grass Type: Kentucky blue, Fescue, Rye
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
Bentgrass/Clover/POA
First post on this board. I have been scouring this board and have found what looks to be a place where I can hopefully come away with a real plan for my issues, so TIA.
Some background:
I live Metro Detroit Michigan in an old 40's bungalow neighborhood. My grass is a northern mix, KB, TF, PR. I recently applied Jonathan Green Green up with Crab grass preventer (3/30).
Front Yard:
My front yard is only separated from my neighbors yards by a small concrete walkway as there is no driveway on my property or next to me. Approximately 500sq/ft. I have been using tenacity for 3 years, probably incorrectly, in an effort to get rid of the clover. In that time, I have developed bent grass that takes over more sq/ft each season (presumably from the neighbor who doesn't bag when they cut).
I'm to the point where the clover and the bent grass is so much that I want to dig it all up and re-sod. However without really knowing how I need to take these on, I'm sure they will show up in the new sod and I'll have the same problem.
Backyard:
My backyard has been a bane for me because of its smaller size and a dog that destroyed it as a puppy. Slowly I have been segmenting it off and either regrowing with seed or laying sod. I have 1 small area left to lay sod down on in the coming weeks. However, along with clover like in the front yard, I have POA in the back. Some is in the bare area that will be cleared and new sod laid but some patches are in the established area.
Questions:
1. (Backyard) When clearing the POA in the bare area before putting new sod down, should I just use a kill all give it the 7-10 days and then lay, or should I dig it all out and spray a preemergent (like tenacity) on the soil before laying the sod? (if so how long from application to laying sod?)
2. For postemergence (bentgrass, clover, and POA) what should I be using to control and eliminate these?
3. Is there a certain amount coverage of the yard where it would be best to cut bait and start from scratch with new sod?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Adam
Some background:
I live Metro Detroit Michigan in an old 40's bungalow neighborhood. My grass is a northern mix, KB, TF, PR. I recently applied Jonathan Green Green up with Crab grass preventer (3/30).
Front Yard:
My front yard is only separated from my neighbors yards by a small concrete walkway as there is no driveway on my property or next to me. Approximately 500sq/ft. I have been using tenacity for 3 years, probably incorrectly, in an effort to get rid of the clover. In that time, I have developed bent grass that takes over more sq/ft each season (presumably from the neighbor who doesn't bag when they cut).
I'm to the point where the clover and the bent grass is so much that I want to dig it all up and re-sod. However without really knowing how I need to take these on, I'm sure they will show up in the new sod and I'll have the same problem.
Backyard:
My backyard has been a bane for me because of its smaller size and a dog that destroyed it as a puppy. Slowly I have been segmenting it off and either regrowing with seed or laying sod. I have 1 small area left to lay sod down on in the coming weeks. However, along with clover like in the front yard, I have POA in the back. Some is in the bare area that will be cleared and new sod laid but some patches are in the established area.
Questions:
1. (Backyard) When clearing the POA in the bare area before putting new sod down, should I just use a kill all give it the 7-10 days and then lay, or should I dig it all out and spray a preemergent (like tenacity) on the soil before laying the sod? (if so how long from application to laying sod?)
2. For postemergence (bentgrass, clover, and POA) what should I be using to control and eliminate these?
3. Is there a certain amount coverage of the yard where it would be best to cut bait and start from scratch with new sod?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Adam
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- Posts: 771
- Joined: May 29th, 2014, 5:42 pm
- Location: Piscataway NJ
- Grass Type: Northern Mix
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
Hey Adam, As far as your second question, I’ve had some success controlling bent grass and Poa annua with multiple applications of Tenacity. Triclopyr (Orthos CCO is one brand) can control clover with multiple applications. Good luck!Adam_in_Detroit wrote: ↑April 12th, 2021, 10:07 amFirst post on this board. I have been scouring this board and have found what looks to be a place where I can hopefully come away with a real plan for my issues, so TIA.
Some background:
I live Metro Detroit Michigan in an old 40's bungalow neighborhood. My grass is a northern mix, KB, TF, PR. I recently applied Jonathan Green Green up with Crab grass preventer (3/30).
Front Yard:
My front yard is only separated from my neighbors yards by a small concrete walkway as there is no driveway on my property or next to me. Approximately 500sq/ft. I have been using tenacity for 3 years, probably incorrectly, in an effort to get rid of the clover. In that time, I have developed bent grass that takes over more sq/ft each season (presumably from the neighbor who doesn't bag when they cut).
I'm to the point where the clover and the bent grass is so much that I want to dig it all up and re-sod. However without really knowing how I need to take these on, I'm sure they will show up in the new sod and I'll have the same problem.
Backyard:
My backyard has been a bane for me because of its smaller size and a dog that destroyed it as a puppy. Slowly I have been segmenting it off and either regrowing with seed or laying sod. I have 1 small area left to lay sod down on in the coming weeks. However, along with clover like in the front yard, I have POA in the back. Some is in the bare area that will be cleared and new sod laid but some patches are in the established area.
Questions:
1. (Backyard) When clearing the POA in the bare area before putting new sod down, should I just use a kill all give it the 7-10 days and then lay, or should I dig it all out and spray a preemergent (like tenacity) on the soil before laying the sod? (if so how long from application to laying sod?)
2. For postemergence (bentgrass, clover, and POA) what should I be using to control and eliminate these?
3. Is there a certain amount coverage of the yard where it would be best to cut bait and start from scratch with new sod?
Thanks in advance everyone.
Adam
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- Posts: 488
- Joined: September 14th, 2018, 10:56 pm
- Location: Western Illinois, parallel to tip o Lake Michigan.
- Grass Type: Mazama KBG
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
My thought is: Are you 100% positive it is bentgrass?
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- Posts: 3871
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
- Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
- Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
As a side comment, you mention poa. Somebody else commented in this recently, but poa isn't necessarily all that helpful. There are many gears that are poa, such as poa annua, poa trivialis, poa pratensis.
The first two are usually (but not always) considered undesirable grasses.
The third is Kentucky Bluegrass (kbg) and is almost* always considered a desirable grass.
*I'm transitioning to a native grass lawn. I should have killed my lawn and started from scratch. But I didn't, so I have patches of kbg and tall fescue.
The first two are usually (but not always) considered undesirable grasses.
The third is Kentucky Bluegrass (kbg) and is almost* always considered a desirable grass.
*I'm transitioning to a native grass lawn. I should have killed my lawn and started from scratch. But I didn't, so I have patches of kbg and tall fescue.
-
- Posts: 3
- Joined: April 11th, 2021, 9:23 am
- Location: Detroit Michigan
- Grass Type: Kentucky blue, Fescue, Rye
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
-
- Posts: 3
- Joined: April 11th, 2021, 9:23 am
- Location: Detroit Michigan
- Grass Type: Kentucky blue, Fescue, Rye
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
Apologies, poa annua.bpgreen wrote: ↑April 15th, 2021, 1:33 amAs a side comment, you mention poa. Somebody else commented in this recently, but poa isn't necessarily all that helpful. There are many gears that are poa, such as poa annua, poa trivialis, poa pratensis.
The first two are usually (but not always) considered undesirable grasses.
The third is Kentucky Bluegrass (kbg) and is almost* always considered a desirable grass.
*I'm transitioning to a native grass lawn. I should have killed my lawn and started from scratch. But I didn't, so I have patches of kbg and tall fescue.
-
- Posts: 771
- Joined: May 29th, 2014, 5:42 pm
- Location: Piscataway NJ
- Grass Type: Northern Mix
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Bentgrass/Clover/POA
It’s not always easy to tell from a picture but that sure looks like bent to me too. I also battle that.Adam_in_Detroit wrote: ↑April 15th, 2021, 9:15 amAs far as I have been able to tell and thats also what JG thought when I sent a photo (the dead grass that you can see pulls away from the soil)
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