Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
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Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Quick question for those familiar with grains storage, SBM, CGM, etc...
I am in Easton and Albright's is about 45 minutes from me. I was thinking about taking a trip and picking up grains for the season if it would store well, but don't want to create an issue with mice.
I have purchased grain meal in the past from another source and noticed worms in them when I got home.
Perhaps it may be cleaner to pick up what I am going to use at given time?
What is the going price for SBM this year.
Thanks in advance.
Gordon
I am in Easton and Albright's is about 45 minutes from me. I was thinking about taking a trip and picking up grains for the season if it would store well, but don't want to create an issue with mice.
I have purchased grain meal in the past from another source and noticed worms in them when I got home.
Perhaps it may be cleaner to pick up what I am going to use at given time?
What is the going price for SBM this year.
Thanks in advance.
Gordon
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Been there, it's my chosen place for getting grains. They're clean, well-bagged, and feed grade (you couldn't eat them as they're not food grade but...yeah, you could eat them).
Worms aren't really a major issue for fertilizer grains. Just put it down, the worms will die and function as lawn food themselves.
You can either pick up what you want at the time and use that, or store for May and fall (August-October). Storing over the winter can give you mice (I've had mice doing that). I also live a block from corn field, so I'd probably have mice anyway. Make sure to blow out or clean out your garage thoroughly at the end of the season. Even just a few spilled grains will attract something to eat it.
I'm not sure what the price is this year; I haven't gone yet and won't until I've had full coverage from both vaccinations for COVID since it's an exposure I can avoid. But it usually hovers around $15 for a 50 pound bag.
Worms aren't really a major issue for fertilizer grains. Just put it down, the worms will die and function as lawn food themselves.
You can either pick up what you want at the time and use that, or store for May and fall (August-October). Storing over the winter can give you mice (I've had mice doing that). I also live a block from corn field, so I'd probably have mice anyway. Make sure to blow out or clean out your garage thoroughly at the end of the season. Even just a few spilled grains will attract something to eat it.
I'm not sure what the price is this year; I haven't gone yet and won't until I've had full coverage from both vaccinations for COVID since it's an exposure I can avoid. But it usually hovers around $15 for a 50 pound bag.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Regarding going rate for soybean meal. I bought a bag today for $14.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Thank you both for responding..I will take a ride over to Albright's soon and load up.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
It's a great place! Park near the screen door, you'll have to move the car to the garage entrance to fill it up. If you get urea there (which, if you need a year-end high-nitrogen feed, I'd recommend--it's cheap), you'll need to go around back, but they'll be glad to give you directions; turn down the small road to the west, and make the immediate turn north. Then go to the first barn and stop. One of the guys will help you there.
Yeah, you can tell I'm familiar with the place...
Urea also runs about $15 for fifty pounds, for 46-0-0 fertilizer, the cheapest nitrogen source I have ever found. It's a bit touchy, but hard to mess up in November when we use it. It goes down at 2.2 pounds per thousand square feet at that time, and tiny pinches can be used on indoor plants and outdoor plants to feed them.
Yeah, you can tell I'm familiar with the place...
Urea also runs about $15 for fifty pounds, for 46-0-0 fertilizer, the cheapest nitrogen source I have ever found. It's a bit touchy, but hard to mess up in November when we use it. It goes down at 2.2 pounds per thousand square feet at that time, and tiny pinches can be used on indoor plants and outdoor plants to feed them.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
@morpheuspa If I was going to switch from Milo to soy meal, what rate would I use?
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
That's arguable because it's not the same thing (Milo has some fast nitrogen, soy does not, soy is 100% slow protein).
However, if we pretend that soy is a commercial fertilizer and just call it 7-1-2 (near enough and if you want to call it 6-1-2 I won't argue), you'd target around 15 pounds per thousand square feet to get down around 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet.
Milo actually recommends a slightly lower N rate (0.8 per K), but I target a higher N level and actually use Milo at close to 1.3 times the bag rate anyway on the lawn. So my numbers don't quite match up to theirs no matter how we play the game...
As to the setting on your spreader, that one's gonna vary. Start around halfway up the dial as a start and work from there, adjusting until you find where 15#/K is. Soybean meal tends to flow reasonably well, the drier it is, the better it flows.
However, if we pretend that soy is a commercial fertilizer and just call it 7-1-2 (near enough and if you want to call it 6-1-2 I won't argue), you'd target around 15 pounds per thousand square feet to get down around 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet.
Milo actually recommends a slightly lower N rate (0.8 per K), but I target a higher N level and actually use Milo at close to 1.3 times the bag rate anyway on the lawn. So my numbers don't quite match up to theirs no matter how we play the game...
As to the setting on your spreader, that one's gonna vary. Start around halfway up the dial as a start and work from there, adjusting until you find where 15#/K is. Soybean meal tends to flow reasonably well, the drier it is, the better it flows.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Thanks Morph...Very helpful. My only concern is the lack of iron with an iron-deficient lawn. I may go with Milo for the May dose and then shift over for July and Sept.MorpheusPA wrote: ↑May 2nd, 2021, 8:13 pmThat's arguable because it's not the same thing (Milo has some fast nitrogen, soy does not, soy is 100% slow protein).
However, if we pretend that soy is a commercial fertilizer and just call it 7-1-2 (near enough and if you want to call it 6-1-2 I won't argue), you'd target around 15 pounds per thousand square feet to get down around 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet.
Milo actually recommends a slightly lower N rate (0.8 per K), but I target a higher N level and actually use Milo at close to 1.3 times the bag rate anyway on the lawn. So my numbers don't quite match up to theirs no matter how we play the game...
As to the setting on your spreader, that one's gonna vary. Start around halfway up the dial as a start and work from there, adjusting until you find where 15#/K is. Soybean meal tends to flow reasonably well, the drier it is, the better it flows.
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
That's fine too, or apply 1-2 pounds per thousand square feet of ferrous sulfate in May and September. That would be an active iron source.
Technically you'll see a lot of pages talking about iron oxide and nanoparticles and whatnot. If you could get particles in that range, I'd be fine with it. You really can't. So I'd stick with the ferrous sulfate and slower application over time. Don't bother iron oxide, magnetite, and the like.
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
I've applied ferrous sulfate in the past and learned the hard way that you can't get it on the sidewalks or street ... My front walk still has rust stains from two years ago.MorpheusPA wrote: ↑May 3rd, 2021, 9:56 pm
Technically you'll see a lot of pages talking about iron oxide and nanoparticles and whatnot. If you could get particles in that range, I'd be fine with it. You really can't. So I'd stick with the ferrous sulfate and slower application over time. Don't bother iron oxide, magnetite, and the like.
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Albrights Mill in Kempton, PA
Oh, heck yeah. You could acid-wash those off, but...even that doesn't work all that well.
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