Weed battle and now POA Triv

[71GTO]

When I found this forum a few years ago I had mostly dirt as a result of removing over a dozen trees and some crappy grass. I have beaten back crab crass, Nimblewill, Japanese Stilt grass, along with all the other common weeds and weird grasses that just won't go away. Now it looks like I have Poa Triv and i'm sure POA annual in there too, My basic strategy has been to try and get the soil right and beat back the weeds as best I can all spring and summer and then in the fall I have been seeding large sections and dead spots that won't fill in. The bare spots are just weed factories no matter how much I sprayed them, so Ive been trying to fill them in the best I can with how much I can handle. I haven't really used a pre m in the fall since I have been seeding areas and I get a lot of winter weeds too.
I see many people battle poa triv in their lawns by just killing the whole area. I would really hate to do that now since I still have a lot of bare spots to fill in and last years seeding project might still need some attention, does it make sense to try to stunt it or try Tenacity using Morpheus's strategy? It seems to be mixed into some good grass and Id really hate to kill these big areas now, I already put pre m down... I also have Acclaim extra that I have seen mentioned as a control for poa triv. Does it make sense for me to really try to kill off all the other common weeds now and finish trying to fill in the large bare spots then tackle this next season if I spray it with something to try to stunt or kill it now and see what happens?
I put a pic up of where I started and what it is now.

[71GTO]

[Masbustelo]

I have some experience with trivialis. It seems there are five ways you can go.
1. Don't do anything. Leave it be and live with it.

2. Kill it now with glyphosphate. Most people reseed in August , 4 months from now. This won't eliminate the trivialis. The rootlings will lay dormant subsurface and come right back to life in your fall seeding.

3. Kill it now with glyphosphate, between now and December keep spraying anything remotely green or alive with glyphosphate. Water the dead areas frequently until August of 2022. And spray anything green with glyphosphate. New seed down in August 2022. You might get rid of most of it but probably not all, and some new might be brought in with your new seeding with the best seed money can buy.
4. Use Morpheus Poa Trivialis protocol.

5. Last but in no way least, Use Andy's Poa Trivialis protocol.

There might be some other options which others may add that I'm not familiar with.

[JeffreyLebowski]

I generally agree. I have TTTF and I find that keeping it at 4 inches and watering minimally helps keep the triv down. When I get a large light green patch I smash it with roundup and reseed.

[71GTO]

Thanks guys, I am going to try to try the Morpheus method for now, I have all the stuff already, I guess even if it just keeps it at bay this season while I try to fix the other issues that should work.

[MorpheusPA]

The Morpheus protocol is more, "Dude, like chill. Far out. Tenacity with pure water and, like, surfactant and, like, stuff. Wow."

And work with nature. I seriously think my lack of irrigation in summer really does help; I'm not encouraging it. I'm not being helpful. And I don't even have problems with it in the margins near the garden that are always bright green.

[oze]

Hello again all,

I used to be more active, both on this Forum and with my lawn, but life got in the way for several years. I'm retired now (except for my Carl the Greenskeeper part-time job at the local Muni golf course), so I hope to become more active in both.

Anyway, among other issues, I have a couple of fairly large patches of poa trivialis in my front yard that I have decided to deal with this summer. I have a stash of Velocity and this article, so I will start spraying once the weather warms up for good here in NE Indiana. I'll post updates and results in case anyone is interested.

[MorpheusPA]

Please do! Data added to the pile is always useful.

As noted, Andy and I have completely different approaches. Mine is far more chill because I'm currently suffering a dry April/May and watching my lawn wilt. I'm NOT watering it. Maybe we'll get rain tomorrow. Maybe not. Let the Universe like, totally decide that, man. But the P. annua and P. trivialis definitely aren't liking it.

[ronfitch]

The Morpheus protocol is more, "Dude, like chill. Far out. Tenacity with pure water and, like, surfactant and, like, stuff. Wow."

And work with nature. I seriously think my lack of irrigation in summer really does help; I'm not encouraging it. I'm not being helpful. And I don't even have problems with it in the margins near the garden that are always bright green.

So, I searched "Morpheus Protocol" and it brought be back to this and the post to which you were replying, Morph.

Can you expand on the Morpheus protocol, Morph? I would message you directly but the admin took that away long ago on the forums.

If I remember correctly, you spot-spray the Triv with Tenacity+pure water+surfacant (and sometimes use something I will never, ever use, heeding your warnings) just before the heat of summer and just after summer breaks as the needed when the Triv is visible. Adding to it, those spots also don't get hit heavily with irrigation in the heat of summer.

Is that the gist of it? Only spot-spraying, no broad application? Thanks.

[MorpheusPA]

Sure, that's it exactly. I've expanded that and also strike anything I see early in spring (I did the first app now). That's already whiting out, draining root resources just to survive spring when it's supposed to be growing like crazy. It's already not going to be happy when summer hits.

[northeastlawn]

I have taken a more "Morpheus Protocol" approach the last few springs at least with spraying for poa-a.

But didnt the "Morpheus Protocol" also include some kind of other chemical that doubles the strength of the Tenacity thats really bad to get on the skin?

Not that you want any of this on your skin.

Last year I did a blanket tenacity spray of 4oz/ac with pure water and sticker. Thats enough enough to get a lot of the poa-a seed heads up, but not enough to get everything bleached white.

If i know I have poa-a patches I don't wait for the 10-14 days because 14 days isn't enough to get get it totally bleached white anyway.

The following week ill start spot spraying poa-a seed heads and whatever looks like it doesnt belong and is lightening.

Ill do maybe 3-4 more weekly spot sprays at the 2oz/ac rate, until the KBG seed heads get so bag I can't tell them apart.

It never totally gets rid of the mature pao-a I have, but not does surpress it and give the KBG a leg up when it wakes up.

I have a small amount of exonerate that is supposed to work on mature po-a, but admit Im afraid to try it, when the "Morpheus Protocol" seems to be working OK.

[MorpheusPA]

It does. DMSO--Dimethyl sulfoxide. Nasty stuff is you don't treat it right. After a treatment of that with Tenacity the stuff goes ghost-white and doesn't come back.

[ronfitch]

Sure, that's it exactly. I've expanded that and also strike anything I see early in spring (I did the first app now). That's already whiting out, draining root resources just to survive spring when it's supposed to be growing like crazy. It's already not going to be happy when summer hits.

Thanks, Morph.