question on #8
- s1mpl3k1d
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question on #8
Where can I get a weed free clean straw? I don't want to topdress with compost or peat moss so I can save more $$. The ones I saw the area are like color green but kinda thick. The others I saw look like hay.
http://aroundtheyard.com/home/faqs/61-steps ... hment.html
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://aroundtheyard.com/home/faqs/61-steps ... hment.html
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: question on #8
Ron, ask your extension service. A lot of states have a forage, hay, and straw program.
Other than that, I can only think of garden centers and big box stores.
Other than that, I can only think of garden centers and big box stores.
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Re: question on #8
s1mpl3k1d wrote:Where can I get a weed free clean straw?
You're in McHenry county - you're loaded with farm and rural supplies.
- s1mpl3k1d
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Re: question on #8
Mallory,
I just posted a question to our local extension. Thanks for that idea.
Btw, I'm really decided to kill my front lawn this year. Right now, it's not looking good. Looks like it got affected when I scalped it last year. Do you still recommend the cultivars you gave me 2 years ago? It's the MAG3.
Gary, what did you put on top of your grass seed when you slit seeded them? Oh, did you slit seeded them? I really want to keep the top 1 inch moisted. Doing this project in mid August is really tough since it's totally hot. Should I adjust the seeding instead like early September? Not sure if mentioning my zone helps. I'm in zone 5a.
Oh, there was no mention of fertilizer application on the link above. When should it be applied? Can we use regular Scott's fertilizer?
Thanks.
I just posted a question to our local extension. Thanks for that idea.
Btw, I'm really decided to kill my front lawn this year. Right now, it's not looking good. Looks like it got affected when I scalped it last year. Do you still recommend the cultivars you gave me 2 years ago? It's the MAG3.
Gary, what did you put on top of your grass seed when you slit seeded them? Oh, did you slit seeded them? I really want to keep the top 1 inch moisted. Doing this project in mid August is really tough since it's totally hot. Should I adjust the seeding instead like early September? Not sure if mentioning my zone helps. I'm in zone 5a.
Oh, there was no mention of fertilizer application on the link above. When should it be applied? Can we use regular Scott's fertilizer?
Thanks.
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Re: question on #8
I didn't slit seed, I just sowed with my drop spreader as I am rapidly becoming a fan of "let sleeping dogs lie" and not disturbing the soil at all so to germinate KBG grass seeds only.s1mpl3k1d wrote: Gary, what did you put on top of your grass seed when you slit seeded them? Oh, did you slit seeded them? I really want to keep the top 1 inch moisted. Doing this project in mid August is really tough since it's totally hot. Should I adjust the seeding instead like early September?
After sowing, I top dressed with bales of peat moss and sprinkled 2 - 3 times daily to maintain dampness.
Late July and early August was my RU, fallow and repeat time frame. My goal was germination by Labor Day.
FWIW - No two Augusts are alike around here, but here's an average for your neighborhood and you'll see August is not 'totally hot'. http://countrystudies.us/united-states/ ... dstock.htm
Keep in mind also, Labor Day is only 5 weeks before my average first frost, close to the lake. You being out in the sticks, that might be only 4 weeks!
- s1mpl3k1d
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Re: question on #8
I got an answer from our local extension regarding the straw. She saw a sale from one of the nurseries in woodstock. She told me not to use hay since it has seeds.
I have a question about grading. I'm pretty sure that I may have to fix some areas. I bought top soil at HD for my garden bed. A week after it rained, it was hardly workable. I'm worried that if I correct some areas using that topsoil, it will be the same. Any recommendation on what to use instead? I'm sure it was not Scotts Topsoil and it was cheaper.
Gary, did you have many weed sprouts? When did you kill it? Are there other cheaper solution other than Dimension?
Thanks!
EDIT:
How do I protect my neighbor's lawn when I spray RU? I remember seeing pics of some kill last year. The dead part at the border was very straight.
I have a question about grading. I'm pretty sure that I may have to fix some areas. I bought top soil at HD for my garden bed. A week after it rained, it was hardly workable. I'm worried that if I correct some areas using that topsoil, it will be the same. Any recommendation on what to use instead? I'm sure it was not Scotts Topsoil and it was cheaper.
Gary, did you have many weed sprouts? When did you kill it? Are there other cheaper solution other than Dimension?
Thanks!
EDIT:
How do I protect my neighbor's lawn when I spray RU? I remember seeing pics of some kill last year. The dead part at the border was very straight.
- s1mpl3k1d
- Posts: 1472
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Re: question on #8
Local Extension told me to contact Stone Tree. Contacted them. 1 bale of straw is $3.50 and it would cover 1000 sqft. So this straw that will be spread, do they decompose overtime or do we have to remove them manually?GaryCinChicago wrote:You're in McHenry county - you're loaded with farm and rural supplies.
- Dchall_San_Antonio
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Re: question on #8
What is it you want the straw for? Are you seeding?
- s1mpl3k1d
- Posts: 1472
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Re: question on #8
I'll be using straw so I can keep moisture longer when I water the seeds. I will be seeding this year. I'm really going to fully renovate the lawn but just the front and one side.Dchall_San_Antonio wrote:What is it you want the straw for? Are you seeding?
- turf_toes
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Re: question on #8
Ron,
You might want to revisit the straw idea. Generally most of us have had pretty good success by seeding into the scalped down remnants of the previous (rounded up) lawn. The old lawn tends to do the same job as your layer of straw.
Personally, I prefer using a slitseeder during this process. But I think Gary has used just a regular old spreader, if I'm not mistaken.
You might want to revisit the straw idea. Generally most of us have had pretty good success by seeding into the scalped down remnants of the previous (rounded up) lawn. The old lawn tends to do the same job as your layer of straw.
Personally, I prefer using a slitseeder during this process. But I think Gary has used just a regular old spreader, if I'm not mistaken.
- kingofgreen
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Re: question on #8
I used an aerator,then seeded(10K sqft) with a plain ole rotary spreader, ROLLED, and topdressed with bales of peat moss. Worked for me!
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Re: question on #8
Yess1mpl3k1d wrote:
Gary, did you have many weed sprouts?
What is "it", weeds?When did you kill it?
If yes, I sprayed the many broadleaf weeds that germinated after 3 mowings.
At $20.79 for 50Lbs for Dimension, I don't think so ... but Dimension and seeding do not belong in the same sentence.Are there other cheaper solution other than Dimension?
Are you thinking of Siduron/Tupersan?
If yes, then to answer - "is there a cheaper version to Scotts Starter Fertilizer with CG preventer for seeding", that answer is yes. But when you factor in shipping and handling (these are heavy shipments) it all equals [unless you can locate Lebanon Turf Products locally].
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Re: question on #8
Fertilizer is in the steps. You missed it.
I don't know, Ron. I recalled being the one talked into the Mag 3 for you. I recommended something else and conceded because you wanted Mag 3. And, I'm pretty concerned about PM problem. I need your conditions again.
I don't know, Ron. I recalled being the one talked into the Mag 3 for you. I recommended something else and conceded because you wanted Mag 3. And, I'm pretty concerned about PM problem. I need your conditions again.
- Dchall_San_Antonio
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Re: question on #8
When is this project going to start?s1mpl3k1d wrote:I'll be using straw so I can keep moisture longer when I water the seeds. I will be seeding this year. I'm really going to fully renovate the lawn but just the front and one side.Dchall_San_Antonio wrote:What is it you want the straw for? Are you seeding?
- s1mpl3k1d
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Re: question on #8
Gary,
Dimension is for killing weeds right?
Mallory,
The lawn that I will be renovating is the one in front of house and it's facing east. I will also include the south side. Both will get more than 8 hours based from what I've noticed so far. I'm in Huntley, Illinois. Zipcode is 60142. I was looking for dark green, thick, and hopefully disease resistant. I wasn't sure why the existing south side lawn before got so much attacked by pm. And if possible, heat and drought tolerant. But I know the limits about drought tolerant. Watering isn't an issue but if possible, drought is a plus. About heat, not sure why some lawns, including my lawn turns really dark green during peak of heat. After that, it wilts, then goes dormant as a protection measure.
David,
I'm thinking killing it after July 27 since we will be out the whole week before this date. Or most likely, I can kill it before we live the house. Once we get back home, while inside the car, it will be very nice to see the reaction of wife. Hahahaha. She's always been against killing the lawn. However, I guess it's time to show what an elite grass will look after few months. That's the part I haven't done.
Dimension is for killing weeds right?
Mallory,
The lawn that I will be renovating is the one in front of house and it's facing east. I will also include the south side. Both will get more than 8 hours based from what I've noticed so far. I'm in Huntley, Illinois. Zipcode is 60142. I was looking for dark green, thick, and hopefully disease resistant. I wasn't sure why the existing south side lawn before got so much attacked by pm. And if possible, heat and drought tolerant. But I know the limits about drought tolerant. Watering isn't an issue but if possible, drought is a plus. About heat, not sure why some lawns, including my lawn turns really dark green during peak of heat. After that, it wilts, then goes dormant as a protection measure.
David,
I'm thinking killing it after July 27 since we will be out the whole week before this date. Or most likely, I can kill it before we live the house. Once we get back home, while inside the car, it will be very nice to see the reaction of wife. Hahahaha. She's always been against killing the lawn. However, I guess it's time to show what an elite grass will look after few months. That's the part I haven't done.
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Re: question on #8
I think you told us a while back that the PM was only very near the house, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. I think you also told us your lawn is KBG/Tall Fescue mix, right? Let me know if I remember this correctly.
Go with B'witching Hour Blend but where the house shades the lawn, just put Fine Fescue in that area.
Go with B'witching Hour Blend but where the house shades the lawn, just put Fine Fescue in that area.
- s1mpl3k1d
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Re: question on #8
Yes, those are correct. I don't see anymore PMs because I created garden beds around the house. And yes, the existing lawn based from what our builder told me is a mixture of KBG/Tall Fescue and PRG.
Sorry if I have so many questions hehehe. Why did you choose B'witching Hour Blend over Mag3 for my area?
Thanks!
Sorry if I have so many questions hehehe. Why did you choose B'witching Hour Blend over Mag3 for my area?
Thanks!
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Re: question on #8
Dimension is a pre-emergent herbicide.
All the blends are based on NTEP ratings. I rely on their results because climate in various areas are what determine results. I remember your question too LOL and the ones that followed which had me inclined to go along with you wanting Mag 3. You like the Mag 3 blend, but you can't talk me into it this time. Two things I want you to remember: one is that B'Witching Hour is your Mag 3 for Illinois. The other is Bluegrass does well everywhere in adapted regions, so you can get the Mag 3 if you want but I'm not suggesting it.
All the blends are based on NTEP ratings. I rely on their results because climate in various areas are what determine results. I remember your question too LOL and the ones that followed which had me inclined to go along with you wanting Mag 3. You like the Mag 3 blend, but you can't talk me into it this time. Two things I want you to remember: one is that B'Witching Hour is your Mag 3 for Illinois. The other is Bluegrass does well everywhere in adapted regions, so you can get the Mag 3 if you want but I'm not suggesting it.
- s1mpl3k1d
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Re: question on #8
Mallory,
I have some good news. My wife finally said to go with what I want to do with the existing lawn. She is a little disappointed that lawn will not look good for 40 to 50 days. I showed to her some before and after pics. I think, that's what I got her convinced. LOL.
I also contacted some online stores today and asked about sod quality seeds. They have all the sod quality seeds that are found in the B'Witching Hour. Can I add bedazzled though? I like it because of it's early spring green up and fall density. I think I also like it because of it's drought tolerant.
Thanks.
I have some good news. My wife finally said to go with what I want to do with the existing lawn. She is a little disappointed that lawn will not look good for 40 to 50 days. I showed to her some before and after pics. I think, that's what I got her convinced. LOL.
I also contacted some online stores today and asked about sod quality seeds. They have all the sod quality seeds that are found in the B'Witching Hour. Can I add bedazzled though? I like it because of it's early spring green up and fall density. I think I also like it because of it's drought tolerant.
Thanks.
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Re: question on #8
They will all give you good drought tolerance. What you miss in Bedazzled you will get from Boutique, plus it's rather blue. It greens up like Bedazzled but takes two or three more weeks to turn its true color because it's darker than Bedazzled.
You might want to have an extended talk with your wife so she doesn't end up feeling she was mislead in any way. The growing season for these grasses can be iffy. You might have a lawn by the end of fall and you might not. It could very well be that your lawn won't kick start into gear until the following spring, while you told her it would be a couple months or less. Let her know she won't regret allowing you to do the renovation, but these grasses are slow to get going.
You might want to have an extended talk with your wife so she doesn't end up feeling she was mislead in any way. The growing season for these grasses can be iffy. You might have a lawn by the end of fall and you might not. It could very well be that your lawn won't kick start into gear until the following spring, while you told her it would be a couple months or less. Let her know she won't regret allowing you to do the renovation, but these grasses are slow to get going.
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