Raise HOC or try leveling

[okstatejoe]

So I've been following Andy's recommendations and my grass is looking ten times better than it did last year. Only problem is now I'm starting to get the "crop circles" or areas that are getting slightly scalped when mowing. I've been mowing every 3-4 days. I'm already cutting at 2" so I hate to raise the HOC unless I have to. I do think a lot of the crop circle problems are a result of the unevenness of my yard though. Does anybody have any experience with trying to level a yards that is maintained at a higher HOC? Should I still use sand or look at getting topsoil first to get it close? I'm concerned some areas could be 1" or more out of level. Also, with the height of cut at 2" is it going to take a lot more sand to get to the top of the grass where I can rake/drag it for leveling? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[gradyb]

Okstatejoe,

Sounds like your efforts are paying off and the turf is developing density thus making it more difficult to cut with your rotary mower. This is a good problem but you may want to consider purchasing a reel mower. I am not sure what type of bermuda you have but I see no problem raising the HOC. Remember to keep the mower blade razor sharp.

Topdress with a combination of compost, peat moss, sand or soil that most resembles your soil composition.

Good luck,
Grady

[Dchall_San_Antonio]

Leveling bermuda has been discussed ad nausium here and on other forums. When people finally get the job finished, they are ecstatic about the results. Since you are compensating for the crop circles now the grass is going to be stemmy when you scalp it. I'm going to invite the other bermuda owners to comment on my comment, but I'm going to suggest that this is a good thing for leveling. When you scalp prior to leveling, those stems will tend to stick up through the process and speed up the return of green blades. What do y'all think? Anyway, here's the process.

1. Get into the deep and infrequent watering mode so you have the deepest roots possible.
2. Fertilize with a high N, low to zero P and K, slow release fertilizer.
3. Scalp it as low as you can. Rent a mower if you don't want to do any harm to yours. Remove all the chaff to your compost pile.
4. Spread sand (not topsoil) just enough to fill the holes and low spots. Smooth out the surface with a drag like they use to drag baseball infields or horse arenas. I made one from a 2x4 and some chain link fencing.
5. Water the sand down after you get the surface perfect. The water will settle the sand.
6. Add more sand as needed to fill in the new low spots you see after watering.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until you are happy. It might take 3 times.
8. Leave everything alone. Don't walk on it after you get the surface right. The sand is loose and shifty until the grass grows back and sends out new stolons.
9. Mow when the grass gets up to 2 inches. You should notice the mower moves much easier across the surface.

Your first question should be, Why sand and not topsoil? Sand does not form clods. Even a 1/4-inch clod will wreak havoc with the surface. You're looking for perfection and looking closely. Clods are a big problem.

Your next question might be about what kind of sand. Personally I've had success with the worst sand, washed beach sand. Beach and river sand are considered bad, because the grains are rounded off into spheres (sort of). Chipped sand is supposed to be better, because the facets on the sides of the grains will interlock and stay in place. I found with my beach sand that once the grass comes in the sand seems to lock into place. If you ever lose the grass; however, it goes right back to being beach sand - loosey goosey. Sand comes in many grits if you can find it. Here is a link to pictures of sand products sold at a San Antonio based materials supply business. Click on any of the pictures to enlarge them. Note the differences in the various sandblasting grits. I have also had success using generic clay kitty litter. This is the same stuff used in mechanics shops to soak up oil. I used a full bag to cover and feather out the surface around a root sticking up in the yard. The faceted clay pieces did lock in nicely. When the grass came up through it was very sturdy.

Next issue is how to take possession of the sand. If you can get it bagged, it costs a little more but it is easier for you to transport, and you can return the unused bags. If you get it in bulk, you have delivery charges and potentially a pile of unused sand on your driveway.

Did I leave anything out?

[canairb]

Nice reply. I'm in the same boat as Joe. I've got my Bermuda filling in and getting thick. I had to raise the blades up once already. I have a very uneven, bumpy, sloping front yard. I think I will wait until next year to try leveling.

[basokc]

The dips and shallows are easy to remedy. It is the bumps and mounds of compacted earth that are difficult to remove. I've looked and looked for a harley rake rental in OKC to no avail. I tried a vertical mower which helps but I will need a second go at it sometime in the future. I might try a Mantis XP rental but I'm concerned about doing too much damage.

[okstatejoe]

Thanks for the feedback! I've raised my HOC and things seem to be better. A reel mower is definitely on my wish list for next year. At this point I hate to take a step backwards and scalp the yard mid season (although I'm sure it would be worth it in the end) so I think I'll save the leveling job for next year. At this point it's just satisfying seeing everything thicken up and get a nice dark green color. When I do I'll let everyone know how it goes.

[Dchall_San_Antonio]

For what it's worth, NOW is the time to level it in OKC. If you wait for next year, you will be waiting 12 months, not 8 or 10.