Thoughts on Aeration
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Thoughts on Aeration
Over a month ago I had a lawn analysis done by Weed man lawn service. I decided to forgo their fertilizer service and do it myself. They did note I have compacted soil. My front lawn probably is not as bad as the back as the front lawn was sodded last year. My back yard was seeded at some point when the house was built. I can tell the ground in the back seems pretty hard/compacted. Should I get it Aerated and when? I called them about a quote and they said they were doing our neighborhood area in the beginning of May. Thoughts?
Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Well you can do it yourself, and you can do a much better job. Do you have access to a PU Truck?
Go to HD and rent a core aerator for a day. Make several passes in different directions. Your contractor will only make one pass which is BS on a home lawn.
Even better rent a vertical mower. It is a little more work but does two jobs by aerating and thatch removal. The extra work is you will have a rake up a large amount of debris the mower digs up..
Go to HD and rent a core aerator for a day. Make several passes in different directions. Your contractor will only make one pass which is BS on a home lawn.
Even better rent a vertical mower. It is a little more work but does two jobs by aerating and thatch removal. The extra work is you will have a rake up a large amount of debris the mower digs up..
- Mightyquinn
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
TW, when using the vertical mower, how low do you set it? I did it this Spring and didn't know what height to set it at. Once setting seemed to just graze the surface unless there was a high spot and the next setting down really got down in the soil. The one thing I did like is that it seemed to knock down the high spots a little bit, I would think over time(years) it would make everything level.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
I dont have a truck to haul a aerator or the time to do it myself. Is May a good time of the year to aerate?
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
I wouldn't bother with it - the guys going door-to-door usually do a pretty poor job with a machine that isn't designed to do much useful work anyhow.stygz wrote:I dont have a truck to haul a aerator or the time to do it myself. Is May a good time of the year to aerate?
If you think that your soil needs some help, try the soil conditioner sprays - they can help "hard" soils.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Yep... Our soils in the deep south tend to be very sandy... That in combination with Mineral Deficiencies (Get a soil test..) and a layer of thatch on top are a recipe for a soil that becomes water repellent and rock hard...
Symptoms:
The grass gets wilty and droughty looking 2-3 days or a week after a good rain... even after a LOT of rain..
The soil won't take water right after it dries out too much
The soil will start taking water right after several days of slow, drippy rain finally wets it right...
It seems like the longer you stick with "Deep and Infrequent" watering, the more the yard declines...
Even after a hard rain - you can dig down 2-3" and find dry soil...
Core aeration will break up the layer of thatch and OM - and gets water into your soil again... and it roars back to life (Along with a GIGANTIC weed invasion)... and then it starts declining again after 6 months to a year as the OM build back up again...
These symptoms mean you need to try out a wetting agent of some sort - either BL Soil Conditioner or a commercial product... and you can skip aeration...
The trouble with vertical mowing and core aeration - and scooping up all the duff that's left over is that you worked so hard to build the soil... then you take off all the Organic Matter that brings fertility.... Unfortunately, there really aren't many other ways to beat hydrophobic soils and thatch layers besides Aeration and wetting agents...
The thing is... When you use wetting agents - you get to keep that layer of OM...
Thanks
Symptoms:
The grass gets wilty and droughty looking 2-3 days or a week after a good rain... even after a LOT of rain..
The soil won't take water right after it dries out too much
The soil will start taking water right after several days of slow, drippy rain finally wets it right...
It seems like the longer you stick with "Deep and Infrequent" watering, the more the yard declines...
Even after a hard rain - you can dig down 2-3" and find dry soil...
Core aeration will break up the layer of thatch and OM - and gets water into your soil again... and it roars back to life (Along with a GIGANTIC weed invasion)... and then it starts declining again after 6 months to a year as the OM build back up again...
These symptoms mean you need to try out a wetting agent of some sort - either BL Soil Conditioner or a commercial product... and you can skip aeration...
The trouble with vertical mowing and core aeration - and scooping up all the duff that's left over is that you worked so hard to build the soil... then you take off all the Organic Matter that brings fertility.... Unfortunately, there really aren't many other ways to beat hydrophobic soils and thatch layers besides Aeration and wetting agents...
The thing is... When you use wetting agents - you get to keep that layer of OM...
Thanks
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
I did have a basic soil test done last month by the local extension office. I posted the results on the soil managment board. Thatch is low as the front lawn is new sod from last year. The back is also low on thatch as it was mostly nothing until I had irrigation put back there. My back lawn is especially rock hard. Sounds like Aeration could be a yearly thing. I am looking at $100 for 7000 sq ft yard.John_in_SC wrote:Yep... Our soils in the deep south tend to be very sandy... That in combination with Mineral Deficiencies (Get a soil test..) and a layer of thatch on top are a recipe for a soil that becomes water repellent and rock hard...
Symptoms:
The grass gets wilty and droughty looking 2-3 days or a week after a good rain... even after a LOT of rain..
The soil won't take water right after it dries out too much
The soil will start taking water right after several days of slow, drippy rain finally wets it right...
It seems like the longer you stick with "Deep and Infrequent" watering, the more the yard declines...
Even after a hard rain - you can dig down 2-3" and find dry soil...
Core aeration will break up the layer of thatch and OM - and gets water into your soil again... and it roars back to life (Along with a GIGANTIC weed invasion)... and then it starts declining again after 6 months to a year as the OM build back up again...
These symptoms mean you need to try out a wetting agent of some sort - either BL Soil Conditioner or a commercial product... and you can skip aeration...
The trouble with vertical mowing and core aeration - and scooping up all the duff that's left over is that you worked so hard to build the soil... then you take off all the Organic Matter that brings fertility.... Unfortunately, there really aren't many other ways to beat hydrophobic soils and thatch layers besides Aeration and wetting agents...
The thing is... When you use wetting agents - you get to keep that layer of OM...
Thanks
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
John_in_SC wrote:Yep... Our soils in the deep south tend to be very sandy... That in combination with Mineral Deficiencies (Get a soil test..) and a layer of thatch on top are a recipe for a soil that becomes water repellent and rock hard...
Symptoms:
The grass gets wilty and droughty looking 2-3 days or a week after a good rain... even after a LOT of rain..
The soil won't take water right after it dries out too much
The soil will start taking water right after several days of slow, drippy rain finally wets it right...
It seems like the longer you stick with "Deep and Infrequent" watering, the more the yard declines...
Even after a hard rain - you can dig down 2-3" and find dry soil...
Core aeration will break up the layer of thatch and OM - and gets water into your soil again... and it roars back to life (Along with a GIGANTIC weed invasion)... and then it starts declining again after 6 months to a year as the OM build back up again...
These symptoms mean you need to try out a wetting agent of some sort - either BL Soil Conditioner or a commercial product... and you can skip aeration...
The trouble with vertical mowing and core aeration - and scooping up all the duff that's left over is that you worked so hard to build the soil... then you take off all the Organic Matter that brings fertility.... Unfortunately, there really aren't many other ways to beat hydrophobic soils and thatch layers besides Aeration and wetting agents...
The thing is... When you use wetting agents - you get to keep that layer of OM...
Thanks
Wow that was a convincing argument. LOL, good explanation my friend. I have a few of those symptoms to some degree. I purchased a few bottles of the shampoo a while back, but never got around to putting it down. Maybe its time to give it a shot. It is just one of those things that seems hard to believe, even thought I trust those who suggest it, I guess maybe that is why I am lazy to try it.
But I for one am starting to believe, as others say here at BL, it is best not to break the surface or disturb the soil ever with core aeration or anything else. So for me its either BL Soil Conditioner or nothing. I am enjoying having very few weeds and don't dare disturb the weed seeds in the ground.
Erik
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Can you elaborate on the BL soil conditioner vs aeration?
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Soil Conditioner: Millions of tiny pore spaces which benefit soil permeability (and thus water and air infiltration, microbial activity and root penetration)stygz wrote:Can you elaborate on the BL soil conditioner vs aeration?
Mechanical Plug Aeration: 10 to 20 holes per square foot, each 1/2" diameter by 4" deep which benefit weed germination and possibly thatch reduction in severe cases.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Is there a brand of soil conditioner? How do you apply it?
- CTShoreGuy
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
cactus wrote:stygz wrote:Can you elaborate on the BL soil conditioner vs aeration?
Mechanical Plug Aeration: 10 to 20 holes per square foot, each 1/2" diameter by 4" deep which benefit weed germination and possibly thatch reduction in severe cases.
You are just asking for more weeds and maybe worse!
Read my tag line.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
I have all these symptoms but only in small sections of my yard. I've put down one application of baby shampoo but haven't had much time for it to work. Do you guys believe there is actually any benefit to th baby shampoo or should I just go ahead and start planning to make the bl soil conditioner concoction. If I do the soil conditioner is that enough, or do I need to go the whole way with the kelp help with humates route?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
You can use the formula in the "article" section at the top of the forum, It's titled "Soil Conditioner and Kelp Help Plus Humates" Article #8.stygz wrote:Is there a brand of soil conditioner? How do you apply it?
There are several threads where it explains in more detail how to apply. Just search for the article title.
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- MorpheusPA
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Baby shampoo is really just fine, however, and that's great if you don't feel like playing Mad Scientist and mixing your own. I like being the Mad Scientist, but many people don't care for it.
Most really inexpensive shampoos are also just fine. I used to recommend White Rain, but the formula's changed and I haven't found the list of new ingredients just yet. I'm sure it's still OK. Shampoos will average a bit more expensive per ounce than the homemade BL Soil Conditioner, but the premium may be worth it to you to avoid amassing separate chemicals, storing, and mixing them yourself.
Most really inexpensive shampoos are also just fine. I used to recommend White Rain, but the formula's changed and I haven't found the list of new ingredients just yet. I'm sure it's still OK. Shampoos will average a bit more expensive per ounce than the homemade BL Soil Conditioner, but the premium may be worth it to you to avoid amassing separate chemicals, storing, and mixing them yourself.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Thanks Morpheus. I have wondered how often I need to reapply, as I've seen differing opinions. And thanks for letting me borrow your thread for a minute stygz . We seem to have a lot of the same issues with soil, recently planted bermuda, and even probably the same type of weather. Here's to hoping we both get it all figured out.MorpheusPA wrote:Baby shampoo is really just fine, however, and that's great if you don't feel like playing Mad Scientist and mixing your own. I like being the Mad Scientist, but many people don't care for it.
Most really inexpensive shampoos are also just fine. I used to recommend White Rain, but the formula's changed and I haven't found the list of new ingredients just yet. I'm sure it's still OK. Shampoos will average a bit more expensive per ounce than the homemade BL Soil Conditioner, but the premium may be worth it to you to avoid amassing separate chemicals, storing, and mixing them yourself.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Hey Morph,
got THIS SPRAYER from Amazon and it has the application rate options of 1-10 teaspoons and 1-10 tablespoons per gallon. Do you have any idea how I can convert that for it to apply at the rate of 2 oz of BLSC per 1k/sq ft as recommended?
If there isnt a way to figure that out, I was just going to put it on like 2-3 tablespoons and guess going from that starting point.
got THIS SPRAYER from Amazon and it has the application rate options of 1-10 teaspoons and 1-10 tablespoons per gallon. Do you have any idea how I can convert that for it to apply at the rate of 2 oz of BLSC per 1k/sq ft as recommended?
If there isnt a way to figure that out, I was just going to put it on like 2-3 tablespoons and guess going from that starting point.
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Reapplication can be every 2 weeks if it's raining if you want. Once a month is really fine, though.ars2210 wrote:Thanks Morpheus. I have wondered how often I need to reapply, as I've seen differing opinions. And thanks for letting me borrow your thread for a minute stygz . We seem to have a lot of the same issues with soil, recently planted bermuda, and even probably the same type of weather. Here's to hoping we both get it all figured out.MorpheusPA wrote:Baby shampoo is really just fine, however, and that's great if you don't feel like playing Mad Scientist and mixing your own. I like being the Mad Scientist, but many people don't care for it.
Most really inexpensive shampoos are also just fine. I used to recommend White Rain, but the formula's changed and I haven't found the list of new ingredients just yet. I'm sure it's still OK. Shampoos will average a bit more expensive per ounce than the homemade BL Soil Conditioner, but the premium may be worth it to you to avoid amassing separate chemicals, storing, and mixing them yourself.
- MorpheusPA
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
How fast are you moving?Mofo2713 wrote:Hey Morph,
got THIS SPRAYER from Amazon and it has the application rate options of 1-10 teaspoons and 1-10 tablespoons per gallon. Do you have any idea how I can convert that for it to apply at the rate of 2 oz of BLSC per 1k/sq ft as recommended?
If there isnt a way to figure that out, I was just going to put it on like 2-3 tablespoons and guess going from that starting point.
I have one of those as well and generally went with the 2-3 tbsp per gallon rate. I move fairly swiftly.
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Re: Thoughts on Aeration
Sounds like the BL conditioner or baby shampoo is what I am going to do. cheaper and dont want to risk weeds. What is the mix rate/method of spraying for the baby shampoo? Thanks for the help guys!
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