Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

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Ruxie88
Posts: 32
Joined: October 12th, 2018, 6:11 am
Location: Central NJ
Grass Type: Northern mix
Lawn Size: 3000-5000
Level: Novice

Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Ruxie88 » February 6th, 2019, 12:14 pm

This will be my first full year completing lawn care in my new home. After joining the site last fall, I learned so much and came up with the below plan. I want to try to stay as much organic as possible. I know it may make sense to use some synthetics based on my soil test results and I'm fine with it. I would appreciate feedback on the below, so I can start sourcing materials. If it helps, I did winterize using Urea at the end of November. Thanks ahead for any feedback.

1. Mar/Apr
a. Get Logan Lab soil test completed
b. Apply organic corn gluten meal pre-emergent at heavy bag rate
i. Apply Tenacity in the small area I dormant seeded

2. Apr
a. Spread compost mixed with Humate (5 lbs/1k) and Biochar (10-15%)

3. May
a. Apply organic fertilizer monthly <15 lbs/1K (.9 lbs/K N) through Aug
i. 5 lbs soybean pellets/meal (7-1-2 (.35 lbs/k N))
ii. 5 lbs alfalfa pellets/meal (3-1-3 (.15 lbs/k N))
iii. 2 lbs feather meal (12-0-0 (.24 lbs/k N)) (phase out by July adding more Kelp meal and poultry manure)
iv. 1 lb kelp meal (1-0-2 (.01 lbs/k N))
v. 1 lb compost poultry manure (3-2-3 (.03 lbs/k N))
vi. 1 lb blood meal (12-0-0 (.12 lbs/k N))
vii. Adjust based on soil test

b. Start preventive fungicide program. Alter between:
i. Green Cure Fungicide (Potassium Bicarbonate)
ii. Cornmeal
iii. Companion
iv. Propiconazole 14.3

c. Apply Level 2 Triangle Approach if necessary

d. Apply KH & BLSC monthly between fertilizer apps

e. Level yard with topsoil and mortar sand (Possibly move to June)

Green
Posts: 6419
Joined: September 14th, 2012, 10:53 pm
Location: CT (Zone 6B)
Grass Type: KBG, TTTF, TTPR, and FF (various mixtures)
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Level: Some Experience

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Green » February 12th, 2019, 12:37 pm

Wow! What a comprehensive organic approach. That looks really good (and a lot of work).

I only have a few comments.

1. If you Winterized the lawn, you may not need organic fertilizer until more like mid (or even late in my area) May. For synthetics, I've always targeted early June (late May in your area since you're about one week ahead in your location as far as Summer temps). The winterizer always seems to hold it over for that long (at least 2 months).

2. If your lawn is new (a first year or possibly second year lawn), starting earlier with the fertilizer (early May or even late April) is probably a good idea, regardless of whether you winterized. Why? Think Philes regimen.

3. I'd start the biofungicide program as early in the Spring as you can (certainly by May, if not before). If this weather keeps up in early Spring, there's going to be a lot of red thread and leaf spot pressure. I have only used Serenade, but it has worked well for me. You should be able to avoid synthetics for preventative for the most part if you do your bio program correctly, and only needing use of the synthetics if an outbreak of something starts while under the bio (and upping the rates doesn't help it).

4. I'm not sure what mortar sand is, but my gut feeling is I think you mean mason sand, mixed with compost, for leveling.

Ruxie88
Posts: 32
Joined: October 12th, 2018, 6:11 am
Location: Central NJ
Grass Type: Northern mix
Lawn Size: 3000-5000
Level: Novice

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Ruxie88 » February 12th, 2019, 9:43 pm

Green wrote:
February 12th, 2019, 12:37 pm
Wow! What a comprehensive organic approach. That looks really good (and a lot of work).
*** :hello: Appreciate it Green. Got a lot of good knowledge from many here.

I only have a few comments.

1. If you Winterized the lawn, you may not need organic fertilizer until more like mid (or even late in my area) May. For synthetics, I've always targeted early June (late May in your area since you're about one week ahead in your location as far as Summer temps). The winterizer always seems to hold it over for that long (at least 2 months).
***I didn't fully follow the Fall Nitrogen Program due to being new to the forum, but I did the final winterizer after the Pause. A lot of the lawn is brown now, so we see how it bounces back. This will be the first time I do a soil test, so I'm sure that will enlightening.

2. If your lawn is new (a first year or possibly second year lawn), starting earlier with the fertilizer (early May or even late April) is probably a good idea, regardless of whether you winterized. Why? Think Philes regimen.

****Lawn is not new. I overseeded with Midnight KBG last fall. I had good germination in the back. Not that good in the front, so that is where I dormant seeded with Bewitched KBG. My interpretation of the Philes Regimen is that KBG wants nitrogen as soon as winter breaks and the microherd wake up. I want to make sure it has what it wants to make it grow quickly. The soil test will tell me if nutrients are not available.

3. I'd start the biofungicide program as early in the Spring as you can (certainly by May, if not before). If this weather keeps up in early Spring, there's going to be a lot of red thread and leaf spot pressure. I have only used Serenade, but it has worked well for me. You should be able to avoid synthetics for preventative for the most part if you do your bio program correctly, and only needing use of the synthetics if an outbreak of something starts while under the bio (and upping the rates doesn't help it).

***Good to know. Thank you! I want to go with different fungicides to prevent the bad fungus from mutating reducing the effectiveness of the good fungus.

4. I'm not sure what mortar sand is, but my gut feeling is I think you mean mason sand, mixed with compost, for leveling.
*** :roll: Your right. The CEC from the soil test will help me determine the percentage mix of organic topsoil and MASON sand.

I recently read that I should spread compost prior to applying my pre-emergent. This will prevent breaking the preemergent barrier. Makes sense to me.

Green
Posts: 6419
Joined: September 14th, 2012, 10:53 pm
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Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Green » February 13th, 2019, 1:22 am

Yeah, same with any raking. Try not to disturb the soil in any way after using the pre emergent.

Since you overseeded and dormant seeded, a Philes type regimen, modified for the organics, would do well. Only thing is, the soil test does not tell you about Nitrogen. Just start applying the organics about the time of your first mow, and you'll make sure there's enough Nitrogen available per your plan above.

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HoosierLawnGnome
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Joined: May 22nd, 2013, 5:59 pm
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Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by HoosierLawnGnome » February 16th, 2019, 8:54 pm

The soil test will help you target dollars to what is most needed.

One thing I'd look at having in your arsenal is milorganite or its local equivalent, oceangro.

The other thing is that corn meal doesnt have anywhere near the efficacy of a chemical pre emergent. I'm not trying to discourage you just setting expectations.

And the thing about mixing chemical fungicides with biofungicides is that the chemical fungicides can kill the preferable hobgoblins in your biofungicide same as they would the undesirable ones that create lawn disease. I'd try going the route of the biofungicide program if you haven't had serious issues previously. It can match well especially if you are applying ktons of OM as the primary way to improve nutrient levels.


TimmyG
Posts: 2119
Joined: May 15th, 2012, 6:04 pm
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Grass Type: Northern Mix
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Experienced

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by TimmyG » February 17th, 2019, 4:44 pm

HoosierLawnGnome wrote:
February 16th, 2019, 8:54 pm
The other thing is that corn meal doesnt have anywhere near the efficacy of a chemical pre emergent.
You, of course, meant to say corn gluten meal.

Ruxie88
Posts: 32
Joined: October 12th, 2018, 6:11 am
Location: Central NJ
Grass Type: Northern mix
Lawn Size: 3000-5000
Level: Novice

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Ruxie88 » February 18th, 2019, 9:50 pm

HoosierLawnGnome wrote:
February 16th, 2019, 8:54 pm
One thing I'd look at having in your arsenal is milorganite or its local equivalent, oceangro.

The other thing is that corn meal doesnt have anywhere near the efficacy of a chemical pre emergent. I'm not trying to discourage you just setting expectations.

And the thing about mixing chemical fungicides with biofungicides is that the chemical fungicides can kill the preferable hobgoblins in your biofungicide same as they would the undesirable ones that create lawn disease. I'd try going the route of the biofungicide program if you haven't had serious issues previously. It can match well especially if you are applying ktons of OM as the primary way to improve nutrient levels.
Appreciate the knowledge on the fungicide. I will stay with the preventive biofungicide rotation only using the propiconazole if I have a significant issue.

I understand the risk involved with CGM. I read that if you use it year after year, it's efficacy will improve. We will see.

I am curious as to why milorganite/oceangro? With all the organics, I didn't see a reason to add these. The only reason I could see is for iron. What am I missing?

Green
Posts: 6419
Joined: September 14th, 2012, 10:53 pm
Location: CT (Zone 6B)
Grass Type: KBG, TTTF, TTPR, and FF (various mixtures)
Lawn Size: 10000-20000
Level: Some Experience

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Green » February 19th, 2019, 4:14 pm

Ruxie88 wrote:
February 18th, 2019, 9:50 pm
Appreciate the knowledge on the fungicide. I will stay with the preventive biofungicide rotation only using the propiconazole if I have a significant issue.

I understand the risk involved with CGM. I read that if you use it year after year, it's efficacy will improve. We will see.

I am curious as to why milorganite/oceangro? With all the organics, I didn't see a reason to add these. The only reason I could see is for iron. What am I missing?
Regarding what Hoosier said above:

I barely needed any chemical fungicides this past year, and the year before. Just once, on one area, basically. I used Serenade biofungicide both years.

As far as pre-emergents go, even the typically used chemical pre-Ms--Diothiopyr and Prodiamine (DiNitroAnalines)--aren't that great when it comes to broadleaf weed prevention, to be honest. They have only a bit of activity on these. Where they excel is prevention of grasses.

As far as Milorganite/OceanGro, etc...they are readily available and fairly affordable. In NJ, OceanGro is especially affordable. Also, the iron is a good feature as you mentioned. They also have Phosphorus, which make them decent starter fertilizers. Finally, they contain fairly significant fast release Nitrogen levels, which is useful if that's what you're after.

Ruxie88
Posts: 32
Joined: October 12th, 2018, 6:11 am
Location: Central NJ
Grass Type: Northern mix
Lawn Size: 3000-5000
Level: Novice

Re: Ruxie 2019 Spring Plan

Post by Ruxie88 » February 19th, 2019, 9:41 pm

Green wrote:
February 19th, 2019, 4:14 pm
Ruxie88 wrote:
February 18th, 2019, 9:50 pm

As far as Milorganite/OceanGro, etc...they are readily available and fairly affordable. In NJ, OceanGro is especially affordable. Also, the iron is a good feature as you mentioned. They also have Phosphorus, which make them decent starter fertilizers. Finally, they contain fairly significant fast release Nitrogen levels, which is useful if that's what you're after.
I can get the grains and other organics relatively cheap in this area. There are a few places to choose from, so that is why I will start looking for it when the product is on sale. I already have Iron Sulfate powder and Urea to supplement if necessary.

I will adjust accordingly once the soil test results come back. All of this is good information to help me make sound decisions. Thank you.

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