How Organic is this?
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: March 8th, 2019, 2:09 pm
- Location: St. Louis
- Grass Type: Tall Fescue
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
How Organic is this?
https://www.siteone.com/p/503121
I came across this product and looking at the label https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?resourceId=25238, I can't really tell how much is actually sourced from organics. So I'm turning to you all for this bit of information.
Also, other than corn gluten, are there any other per-emergent organic products out there? LAst year I had an explosion of various Spurge and lespedeza... I skipped my normal pre-emergent app (Lesco stonewall) and it was mostly fine until the summer rolled around .
I came across this product and looking at the label https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?resourceId=25238, I can't really tell how much is actually sourced from organics. So I'm turning to you all for this bit of information.
Also, other than corn gluten, are there any other per-emergent organic products out there? LAst year I had an explosion of various Spurge and lespedeza... I skipped my normal pre-emergent app (Lesco stonewall) and it was mostly fine until the summer rolled around .
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- Posts: 3874
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
- Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
- Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
Re: How Organic is this?
That doesn't look very organic. It lists biosolids, but as the last ingredient, which means it's the smallest in quantity.
As far as I know, corn gluten meal is the only organic pre emergent. I've never used it, but from what I've read, as a pre emergent, it's a really good fertilizer.
The studies that were done with it used massive amounts in order to get pre emergent effects. If I remember correctly, weather conditions had to be fairly optimal, as well.
I've never used it or shopped for it, but I've read that it's pretty expensive if bought as cattle feed, but much more expensive if bought as pre emergent (due to patent or licensing fees paid to Iowa State University, where the pre emergent research was done).
As far as I know, corn gluten meal is the only organic pre emergent. I've never used it, but from what I've read, as a pre emergent, it's a really good fertilizer.
The studies that were done with it used massive amounts in order to get pre emergent effects. If I remember correctly, weather conditions had to be fairly optimal, as well.
I've never used it or shopped for it, but I've read that it's pretty expensive if bought as cattle feed, but much more expensive if bought as pre emergent (due to patent or licensing fees paid to Iowa State University, where the pre emergent research was done).
- Dchall_San_Antonio
- Posts: 3343
- Joined: December 17th, 2008, 1:53 am
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
- Grass Type: St Augustine
- Lawn Size: 5000-10000
- Level: Advanced
Re: How Organic is this?
Here's how you can tell whether it is organic. The label has this...
Urea is an organic chemical; however, it is made from natural gas and so is not considered to be organic by the OMRI. Urea is a fast release type of nitrogen and can easily burn the lawn if used in high amounts. In this case, most of the urea is coated in either sulfur or a slow melting polymer so as to release the chemical more slowly. If your lawn is not being inspected by the USDA for 'organicity,' then you can call this an organic ingredient if you want. Then we get to the rest of the stuff. Ammonium sulfate is pure chemicals and looks like rock salt. The same goes for monoammonium phosphate. Muriate of potash is another name for potassium chloride - chemicals. The iron stuff is chemicals. Basically if you don't recognize any biological components like soybeans, corn, alfalfa, or poultry litter as the leading ingredients, then it is not going to be organic. Most commercially bagged organic fertilizers contain some basic grains and then add potassium sulfate (or sulfate of potash) to bring in a little more potassium. I just avoid the commercially bagged ferts and go with straight grains from the feed store.DERIVED FROM: Polymer Coated Sulfur Coated Urea, Urea, Ammonium Sulfate, Monoammonium Phosphate, Muriate of Potash, Iron Oxysulfate, Biosolids.
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: March 8th, 2019, 2:09 pm
- Location: St. Louis
- Grass Type: Tall Fescue
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
Re: How Organic is this?
Thanks a lot guys! I didn't think it was, but I wanted to see how chemical driven it was, and it's even more than I thought. I will pass on it, and stick with soybeans, corn, alfalfa, or poultry litter for my source of nitrogen.
One follow up question, if I remember correctly, weed seeds can stay in soil for years before they die, is that correct? I want to prohibit the most weeds, but after seeing what happened last year, I feel tempted to use a chem pre-emergent until most weed seeds would be gone.
One follow up question, if I remember correctly, weed seeds can stay in soil for years before they die, is that correct? I want to prohibit the most weeds, but after seeing what happened last year, I feel tempted to use a chem pre-emergent until most weed seeds would be gone.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: How Organic is this?
You'd have to wait a long time -- a University determined that some weeds can stay ungerminated for up to 70 years.
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- Posts: 3874
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
- Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
- Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
Re: How Organic is this?
I think many weed seeds remain viable for years.
I could be wrong, but I think that most preemergents don't actually prevent germination. Instead, they prevent the newly germinated roots from getting into the soil. So theoretically, they should become more effective over time as seeds germinate and fail to root.
I could be wrong, but I think that most preemergents don't actually prevent germination. Instead, they prevent the newly germinated roots from getting into the soil. So theoretically, they should become more effective over time as seeds germinate and fail to root.
- Dchall_San_Antonio
- Posts: 3343
- Joined: December 17th, 2008, 1:53 am
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
- Grass Type: St Augustine
- Lawn Size: 5000-10000
- Level: Advanced
Re: How Organic is this?
One way to get rid of the weed seeds is to germinate them all and then kill the plants that come up. You can usually germinate them by daily watering to keep the seeds moist for 4-5 days. If you want to try and prevent germinating the weeds, then go to deep and infrequent watering all the time knowing that some day, Mother Nature will step in to germinate those seeds for you.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: May 2nd, 2019, 1:25 am
- Location: South Gate, CA
- Grass Type: Rye grass
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
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Re: How Organic is this?
Great.
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