Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Kentucky bluegrass, Fescue, Rye and Bent, etc
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Ric Clint
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Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by Ric Clint » May 26th, 2015, 2:02 am

Hey, sorry for the long post but I'm new to this Forum (actually stumbled on it by accident while I was studying several different Fertilizing articles) and I have no idea what I am doing when it come to Fertilizing so I figured I'd make post and hopefully get some answers to clear up a lot things I'm confused about. My following questions have probably been mentioned on here in the past, but I figured I would make a post. Here's some information about my area and Grass Type so you may can better answer my questions.

I'm located in North Carolina about 1hr & 15min WEST of Charlotte, North Carolina. In the following link of a map of North Carolina, I'm in the RED colored area on the map near the bottom part of the RED area which is above the South Carolina line by about 30 minutes or so driving time.

https://familysearch.org/learn/wiki/en/ ... erford.png

My yard is about 3,500SF and my Grass is Tall Fescue (3 way blended Tall Fescue). I'm trying to learn what is the best Fertilizing schedule to follow. Time and Money is not really an issue. High maintenance doesn't bother me...I just want my Lawn to have a deep dark green and be healthy. I'm kind of familiar with N-P-K a little bit, but not much.

I guess what I'm asking, is:

1.) As far as Lime, Iron, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium... at what times of the year is each particularly needed (and what N-P-K ratio & Iron and Lime do you follow for each of the 4-5 Fertilizing times of the year)?

2.) Is there a difference between Sulfur Coated Urea Base and Polymer Coated Urea, or are they the same thing? And are these talking about the Nitrogen?

3.) Someone told me that LIME's only purpose was just to get the Soil's PH balanced enough so that when you added Fertilizer, the Fertilizer could do it's thing... is that correct? How much should be added? How often - 2 times a year, 4 times a year? One fellow told me that however much LIME my soil needs (based off of Soil Test results that I am planning to get) that I could just put it all on at once instead of spreading out the amount evenly across 4-5 times a year (meaning for example if I need to add say 500lb of LIME for the WHOLE year to just drop it all at once instead of just dropping 100lb every couple of months over the course of 5 different times...make sense???)

4.) One person said that you need to ALWAYS start off Early Spring with your 1st Fertilizing of the year being a "Starter Fertilizer" (even if you didn't Over-Seed) because it has a lot of high Nitrogen and Phosphorus and it will start the Grass off in a strong direction. Is there much truth to this? Or can you just use one of the other Fertilizers mentioned down below in my next section?

5.) How many times a year should you Fertilize per year? I have read where a lot of people on the internet talking about the best way to have the best lawn is to Fertilize 4 times a year...and Scotts even has a 4 Step Program (which actually could be a 5 Step Program if you look at their Turf Builder WINTERGUARD Fall Lawn Food for LATE FALL, because Scotts says "For your best lawn, feed once in Early Fall and 6-8 weeks later in Late Fall"). The 4 Seasons based on my understanding of Scotts, though I could be wrong, are:
-- EARLY SPRING (february, march, april)
-- LATE SPRING (april, may, june)
-- SUMMER/EARLY FALL (june, july, august)
-- LATE FALL (august, september, october, november)


So below, is some "Schedule Examples" I have gathered up to represent the "4-5 Fertilizing's Per Year" schedule I have read about (ALSO, some of the Fertilizers will appear in again and again in multiple Seasons because the bag says they are for any season if I understood it correctly).

Some have referenced to do it 4 times per year about every 2.5 months (none of these Fertilizers have any IRON in them so someone said that you can apply one of these, I believe they are called, Spray-On Iron's like ECO Dark Green, EDDHA, DTPA, or EDTA from time to time throughout the year to get that very dark, dark green look)...
- EARLY SPRING (March 15):
Rake up dead Thatch if needed, Aerate the Lawn, Lime, and DONT Over-Seed because you'll be using the Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ Halts Crabgrass Preventer (30-0-4)
- LATE SPRING (June 1):
Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food Weed & Feed (28-0-3)
- SUMMER/EARLY FALL (August 15):
Scotts Turf Builder SummerGuard Lawn Food w/ Insect Control (20-0-8)
- LATE FALL (November 1):
Spike the Lawn this time (instead of Aerating again like in Early Spring), Lime, Over-Seed now, and then use Scotts Starter Fertilizer (24-25-4) or instead use Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food (32-0-10):
*** SCOTTS says you can use WinterGuard 2 times in the Fall: "For your best lawn, feed once in Early Fall and 6-8 weeks later in Late Fall."

And I've also heard the following 5 Step schedule, with each Step happening every 2 months (might not need the Spray-On Iron because most of the following have IRON already in the Fertilizers) and Scotts even says to use certain Fertilizers of theirs every 6-8 weeks (since none of the following have anything for Crabgrass Control and Weed Control, can you just use a Post-Emergent like 2,4-D and just spot spray when you see something popping up or would that be too much work)...
- EARLY SPRING (March 15):
Rake up dead Thatch if needed, Aerate the Lawn, Lime, Over-Seed if needed, and use Scotts Starter Fertilizer (24-25-4) even if you didn't Over-Seed the Lawn.
- LATE SPRING (May 15):
Then apply just 1 of whichever of the options below that you want...
Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-10)
Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-4)
Scotts Green Max Lawn Food w/ 5.17% IRON (26-0-2)
- SUMMER (July 15):
Then apply just 1 of whichever of the options below that you want...
Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-10)
Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-4)
Scotts Green Max Lawn Food w/ 5.17% IRON (26-0-2)
- EARLY FALL (September 15):
Then apply just 1 of whichever of the options below that you want...
Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food (32-0-10)
*For the one above, SCOTTS SAYS: "For your best lawn, feed once in Early Fall and 6-8 weeks later in Late Fall."
Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-10)
Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-4)
Scotts Green Max Lawn Food w/ 5.17% IRON (26-0-2)
- LATE FALL (November 15):
Spike the Lawn this time (instead of Aerating again like in Early Spring), Lime, Over-Seed if needed, and use a 10-10-10 Fertilizer, instead of Scotts Starter Fertilizer (24-25-4), because it is lower in Nitrogen for the coming Winter AND it has some Phosphorus to get the Roots growing.
Or, apply just 1 of whichever of the options below that you want...
Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food (32-0-10)
*For the one above, SCOTTS SAYS: "For your best lawn, feed once in Early Fall and 6-8 weeks later in Late Fall."
Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-10)
Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-4)

6.) Some of Scotts Fertilizers say you can feed in ANY Season like every 6-8 weeks, but wouldn't that put you feeding the lawn more than that 4 times a year plan, to somewhere around 6 to 7 times a year or so? Is that normal? The following are the ones that say every 6-8 weeks:
- Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON
- Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON
- Scotts Green Max Lawn Food w/ 5.17% IRON
- Scotts Step 3 w/ 2% IRON

7.) If using some Oscillating Sprinklers, how many times a week AND how long each time is a good schedule? One fellow told me that if you can walk on the grass and it leaves footprints or is slightly soggy, then that's enough for that day???

8.) On any given Fertilizer, there's a GUARANTEED ANALYSIS... my question is what do each of the following mean?
Total Nitrogen:
-- Ammoniacal Nitrogen
-- Urea Nitrogen
-- Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
-- Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash
Sulfur




Here's some of the different Scotts Fertilizers and Analysis for easy reference:

(1.) Scotts Turf Builder Starter Food for New Grass (24-25-4):
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 24%:
- 5.4% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 10.3% Urea Nitrogen
- 7.7% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.6% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Available Phosphate 25%
Soluble Potash 4%

(2.) Scotts SOUTHERN Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ 2% IRON (32-0-10):
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 32%:
- 0.9% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 17.3% Urea Nitrogen
- 12.6% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 1.2% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 10%
Sulfur 4%
Iron 2%

(3.) Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food (32-0-4):
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 32%:
- 4.9% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 15.1% Urea Nitrogen
- 11.0% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 1.0% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 4%
Sulfur 7%
Iron 2% (I didn't realize this had 2% Iron too, I thought just the Southern Lawn Food had the 2% Iron???)

(4.) Scotts Green Max Lawn Food w/ 5.17% IRON (26-0-2):
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 26%:
- 6.8% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 10.6% Urea Nitrogen
- 7.9% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.7% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 2%
Sulfur 11%
Iron 5.17%

(5.) Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food w/ Halts Crabgrass Preventer (30-0-4):
* Weed Preventer Active Ingredient is Pendimethalin at 1.29%
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 30%:
- 7.7% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 12.4% Urea Nitrogen
- 9.1% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.8% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 4%
Sulfur 10%

(6.) Scotts STEP 1 (this appears to be basically the same as the above "Halts Crabgrass Preventer")

(7.) Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food Weed & Feed (28-0-3):
* Weed Killer Active Ingredients is 2,4-D at 1.21% "AND" Mecoprop-p at 0.61%
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 28%:
- 5.2% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 12.7% Urea Nitrogen
- 9.3% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.8% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 3%
Sulfur 7%

(8.) Scotts STEP 2 (this appears to be basically the same as the above "Weed & Feed")

(9.) Scotts Turf Builder SummerGuard Lawn Food w/ Insect Control (20-0-8):
* Bug Killer Active Ingredient is Bifenthrin at 0.086%
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 20%:
- 0.0% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 20% Urea Nitrogen
- 0.0% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.0% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 8%
Sulfur 2%

(10.) Scotts STEP 3 w/ 2% IRON (this appears to be basically the same as #2 way up above on this list "Lawn Food")

(11.) Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food Feed & Weed (28-0-10):
* Weed Killer Active Ingredients is 2,4-D at 1.21% "AND" Mecoprop-p at 0.61%
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 28%:
- 1.3% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 14.5% Urea Nitrogen
- 11.2% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 1.0% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 10%
Sulfur 5%

(12.) Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food (32-0-10):
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Total Nitrogen 32%:
- 2.7% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
- 21.8% Urea Nitrogen
- 7.0% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
- 0.5% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
Soluble Potash 10%
Sulfur 6%
*** SCOTTS SAYS: "For your best lawn, feed once in Early Fall and 6-8 weeks later in Late Fall."

13.) Scotts STEP 4 (this appears to be basically the same as the above "WinterGuard Fall Lawn Food")



Thanks for your time and feedback!



.

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HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by HoosierLawnGnome » May 26th, 2015, 5:50 am

Welcome to the site!! You have a lot of questions - which is great. I dont have time to go over your pists in its entirety but heres the gist of my recommendations.

Use the search function and read the heck outta this site. Read the articles. forget most of what you've been told unless the person telling you has a lawn you'd consider serious jail time to have.

If you want a fertilization plan from here, do a soil test with Logan Labs and post it per the soil management forum.

Search for nitrogen feeding techniques for your type of turf. Most of it is recommended to be done in the fall.

Oh. And one word "milorganite". :rotfl:

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llO0DQLE
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by llO0DQLE » May 26th, 2015, 6:43 am

Here's All You Need To Do. Milorganite From SPring To Late Summer. Follow The Fall Nitrogen Regimen. Use The Search Function To FInd ThIs Thread. Do A SoIl Test, Post It In The SoIl Forum And Follow The Recommendations.

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mattya
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by mattya » May 26th, 2015, 9:21 am

Lots of questions! And lots of "fellows" that gave you bad advice lol. I'll try to answer you questions, but my responses may not be as long winded as your questions. If you want clarification or anything doesn't make sense, just ask. And as noted, read around the forum there's TONS of good information here.

1) http://aroundtheyard.com/soil/posting-s ... t9339.html . Get a soil test done (from Logan). Post up the results here and we'll work with you to get an answer to all those questions. Without a soil test, we really can't answer that, as every soil is different.

2) Different coated urea usually just changes how much is slow-release and how much is fast-release. "Regular" urea is 46-0-0 (all nitrogen) and is all fast release.

3) See #1. Definitely DO NOT add all the lime needed at once. That is a recipe for a disaster on many many levels. The "Soil Team Six" here will work up a plan for you, including Lime if needed.

4) No, not true. If you soil has ample levels of Phosphorus and Potassium already, there is no reason to use a starter fertilizer in the Spring - Hell, you don't even need a starter fert when seeding. You also typically don't want to blast the lawn with a bunch of Nitrogen first thing in the Spring before it's really "woke up" on it's own.

5) It all depends on your situation. We have people here fertilizing (by this I'm talking strictly in terms of Nitrogen, nothing else) just a couple times a year and others dropping some form of N weekly (seriously, every week). There's no one size fits all program that will work for every lawn.

6) See #5.

7) Sorry, but again it depends lol. We tend to preach "deep and infrequent" around here. The starting point for that is 1" of water (all at once) once a week. However, people with sandy soils (like myself) will need to water more frequent than that. Typically, it comes down to listening to the grass - It'll show signs of drought stress and over times you'll notice which parts of your lawn show those signs first. You can then use those to know when it's time to water. As far as how long you'll need to water, that'll depend on your water pressure, GPM, hose diameter, sprinkler, etc. Get some small cans (tuna, cat food, etc) and place them around the lawn when you water next. Run the sprinkler for an hour or so and then measure how much water is down. Don't be surprised if you need to water several hours to get anywhere close to 1".

8) That's what the fertilizer is derived from. You don't really need to concern yourself with this. However, one good thing to know is the difference between water soluble nitrogen (WSN) and water insoluble nitrogen (WIN). WSN is thought of as fast release (as soon as it's watered in) and WIN is slow release.



As mentioned, use the search function and you'll find all these answers already asked and answered as well. Don't overwhelm yourself right away, there's a lot to it. Getting the basics down are the most important (mowing and watering).

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ken-n-nancy
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by ken-n-nancy » May 26th, 2015, 9:40 am

Ric Clint wrote:Hey, sorry for the long post but I'm new to this Forum...
Welcome to the ATY forum! There are some awesome lawn experts here (although I'm not yet one of them, I'm learning!) who can really provide a lot of help for you to get your lawn in top shape.
Ric Clint wrote:I'm trying to learn what is the best Fertilizing schedule to follow. ...I just want my Lawn to have a deep dark green and be healthy.
There are some good overviews in the "Articles" and "FAQs" sections that will provide a rough schedule for the year and maintenance suggestions.

In all honesty, the best thing to learn about at first is proper mowing, watering, and fertilization. Doing those three things right, even with nothing else, will give you a 90th-percentile lawn. Add proper weed control to that and you'll have one of the prettiest lawns in the neighborhood.
Ric Clint wrote:1.) As far as Lime, Iron, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium...
For nitrogen, the needs are dependent mostly upon your grass. I don't have Tall Fescue, so I'm not familiar with nitrogen recommendations for that grass type. At least 3-4 pounds of Nitrogen per 1K square feet per year is likely. Others can provide more details.

For the others, in order to really know what is needed, you should get a soil test performed. This will allow a soil fertilization plan to be tailored for you be the experts here. Without doing a soil test, anybody is just guessing at what you need. Soils can vary an awful lot, such that exactly the right thing for your lawn may be exactly the *wrong* thing for your neighbor across the street, depending upon how the soil has been maintained in the past.

To get a soil test, read the instructions in the Posting a Soil Test for Interpretation thread in the Soil management forum. That thread will explain how to collect a soil test, send it to Logan Labs for interpretation, post the results in that forum, and get a custom-generated plan for your lawn from the experts here. It's the best free advice you're going to get for your lawn. Actually, it might be the best advice you get for any price. Just do it.
Ric Clint wrote:2.) Is there a difference between Sulfur Coated Urea Base and Polymer Coated Urea, or are they the same thing? And are these talking about the Nitrogen?
These are coatings for urea (nitrogen) that slow the release period so that the nitrogen isn't delivered to the lawn all at once. These coatings allow one to apply fertilizer less frequently and reduce the risk of overapplication causing "burning" to the grass.
Ric Clint wrote:3.) Someone told me that LIME's only purpose was just to get the Soil's PH balanced enough so that when you added Fertilizer, the Fertilizer could do it's thing...
Not quite. There's even different types of lime. See the Lime Article in the articles section.

You can't know how much lime to apply, or what type, at what frequency, without getting a soil test. (Seeing a theme here?)

You definitely can't just drop at one time all the lime that some soils would need, unless you might want to completely kill off the grass, or any other living things, in the process.
Ric Clint wrote:4.) One person said that you need to ALWAYS start off Early Spring with your 1st Fertilizing of the year being a "Starter Fertilizer"

For some soils, that might be a reasonable approach. For others, disaster. Get a soil test to find out which you need.
Ric Clint wrote:5.) How many times a year should you Fertilize per year?
This depends a lot upon your goals and objectives, as well as your grass type. If you want a lawn that just keeps the soil from eroding away and is very low maintenance, you can get away with once a year with certain grass types. Some folks here apply small doses of fertilizer weekly to provide tight control over how the grass grows. Anything in between is possible based upon what you want to do.

What you describe matches pretty well with the "Scotts N-Step Plan." That provides a simplification that can work for the average homeowner with minimal thought. You can do a lot better by getting a soil test and following the custom plan.

Also, any "calendar" approach benefits from taking seasonal weather into consideration as well as the condition of the lawn, rather than treating the calendar as absolute dates to make certain applications.
Ric Clint wrote:7.) If using some Oscillating Sprinklers, how many times a week AND how long each time is a good schedule?
The general guideline for most grass types is 1" of rain per week. The variation in sprinkler type and water pressure is incredible. In order to know for sure, run your sprinkler for 30 minutes with some empty tuna cans out on the grass under the sprinkler. After 30 minutes, measure how much water landed in each of the cans. You'll probably be surprised by what you find. In general, it takes a *long* time to deliver an inch of water from a sprinkler.

Irrigation is best done infrequently and deeply. There are more articles about this on the site.
Last edited by ken-n-nancy on May 26th, 2015, 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.


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ken-n-nancy
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by ken-n-nancy » May 26th, 2015, 9:45 am

Wow, mattya wrote up a detailed reply just as I was - didn't see his until after my posting.

Believe it or not, we didn't coordinate our responses - even though their consistency is eerily similar! :)

mattya
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by mattya » May 26th, 2015, 10:16 am

ken-n-nancy wrote:Wow, mattya wrote up a detailed reply just as I was - didn't see his until after my posting.

Believe it or not, we didn't coordinate our responses - even though their consistency is eerily similar! :)
:good:

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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by BoatDrinksQ5 » May 26th, 2015, 10:24 am

Most likely with your extended growing season in NC, you will be easily able to get into the 5# or more of nitrogen per year it would seem (although in the worst of your summer you would want to likely hold off fertilizing... or just very light dose).

Quite a few of the people here are using Milorganite/OceanGro at bag rate or higher every week or two ([+3-1.6-#N/Month]/k). Many others are at 3-4week dosages ([.8#N/Month]/k)

At higher fertilizing rates... better invest in a spare mower blade :) lol

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GeorgiaDad
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by GeorgiaDad » May 26th, 2015, 10:32 am

Welcome to the site. You will be assimilated. :rotfl:

You've been given a lot of good advice. Sounds like you have spent way too much time on the Scotts site. :blackeye: Since you like to read, I'm going to give you some links to some good information.

First lime. There are 2 kinds. Dolomitic and Calcitic. You need to know which type you need. From the Encap site. A very brief discription.
Calcitic Lime or Dolomitic Lime?

Raw limestone is derived from two different sources: calcitic lime, or dolomitic lime. Calcitic lime is the preferred lime, because of the powerful neutralizer that Calcium is, and also because of the added benefits Calcium offers to soil and plants. Soils that are magnesium deficient can benefit from dolomitic, but in general, the higher percentage of Calcium a lime product is, the better quality it is.
To know which type and how much, you need a soil test.
Another good read for lime....http://aroundtheyard.com/home1/articles ... -lawn.html

Please read this before getting a soil test...http://aroundtheyard.com/soil/posting-s ... t9339.html

Some links about fertilizer.
http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/support ... ations.htm This is a good link to give you a basic understanding. But under the heading General Suggestions for Applying. Ignore the suggestions on lime. It's way off.
Fertilizer calculator..https://aggieturf.tamu.edu/aggieturf2/c ... sheet.html
This explains NPK....http://www.gardeningsite.com/fertilizat ... ients-npk/
Soil Management part 1....http://aroundtheyard.com/home1/articles ... ement.html

Watering basics...http://aroundtheyard.com/home1/articles ... ation.html

Here's some help with the basic terms...http://aroundtheyard.com/home1/faqs/52- ... terms.html
There's more but that will get you started.

There is a ton of good information on this site. Don't just read the last couple of pages. Go way back. Lots of info to be learned there.

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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by JustAGuy » May 26th, 2015, 12:27 pm

GeorgiaDad wrote:Welcome to the site. You will be assimilated. :rotfl:
<snip>
:rotfl: We are borg resistance is futile :P

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HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by HoosierLawnGnome » May 26th, 2015, 4:18 pm

:rotfl:

The rabbit hole of our obsession is deep.

I think I just heard a sonic boom from OP's head exploding.

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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by BoatDrinksQ5 » May 26th, 2015, 4:23 pm

actually, that might have been mine.... from reading the OP

LOL

;)

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GeorgiaDad
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by GeorgiaDad » May 28th, 2015, 3:03 pm

I hope we didn't inundate the op with information overload. :shock:

LoneRanger
Posts: 2692
Joined: April 25th, 2014, 11:11 pm
Location: Macomb County Michigan
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Re: Fertilizing Questions that I'm confused about

Post by LoneRanger » May 28th, 2015, 6:45 pm

... or a 1 shot pistol.

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